I've read many posts where folks actually measure their IPD and set their bins and forget it. I believe the IPD changes a few mm based on distance.
I've been doing this method for a while without thinking about it. Seems to work for me and requires no measurements. And can be adjusted for every distance.
Find a target at the distance you'll be viewing. Defocus your binoculars so everything is blurry. Notice you can now see the FOV (circle of view) edges clearly. Open bins wider and close down until the circles overlap. But, don't try to watch the edge of the FOV while doing this. Just look in the center of the defocused FOV.
You'll actually "feel" when the circles overlap perfectly.
Seems like a fast way to nail the IPD at any distance... try it and see if it works for you.
I think if you do this with everything in focus you can't see the FOV circles overlap the way they should.
Cheers
[QUOTE=oleaf;1647638]I've read many posts where folks actually measure their IPD and set their bins and forget it. I believe the IPD changes a few mm based on distance.
I've been doing this method for a while without thinking about it. Seems to work for me and requires no measurements. And can be adjusted for every distance.
Find a target at the distance you'll be viewing. Defocus your binoculars so everything is blurry. Notice you can now see the FOV (circle of view) edges clearly. Open bins wider and close down until the circles overlap. But, don't try to watch the edge of the FOV while doing this. Just look in the center of the defocused FOV.
You'll actually "feel" when the circles overlap perfectly.
Seems like a fast way to nail the IPD at any distance... try it and see if it works for you.
I think if you do this with everything in focus you can't see the FOV circles overlap the way they should.
Cheers[/QUOTE]
I tried your method for setting IPD and it didn't really work for me! I guess I don't get it.
Oleaf,
Don't miss the IPD discussion raging under the 8x32 FL sweetness thread. That has undoubtedly contributed to the wholesale ignorance of your idea!
I tried your method and think it's useful. The point is, I believe, that defocusing relaxes one's attention from anything interesting in the view to be looked at, and makes the sharp field stops stand out better, and thus easier to bring into alignment. A pitfall exists however--defocusing brings the image to some apparent point other than infinity, and thus the eyes potentially slightly crossed rather than parallel, so one must be sure to keep the eyes relaxed and gaze at infinity, and not "try" to examine the out of focus image.
Ron