Some time ago there was a question asked about a quick test for binocular collimation.
Many years ago I learned the following test which is very effective: set up the binocular on a tripod if you can (but you can do this with the binocular hand-held) and focus on a distant object, which ideally should have recognisable detail with horizontal and vertical features, then slowly withdraw your eyes from the eyepieces, while continuing to look through them. If collimation is correct the images in each eyepiece will stay fused, but if one image moves, even if only a little, with relation to the other then the collimation is out and the binocular should be adjusted by a technician.
A little practice may be needed at first, but once you have the knack this test does reveal any problems in no more than a few seconds.
On no account try to adjust collimation yourself; a technician not only knows what to do, but has the necessary equipment to do it.
John H.-S., Brighton.
Here a link with detailed description of some tests:
http://rchamon.iies.es/Collimation/Collimation.htm
Take a look around here too for previous postings on collimation checks. They sometimes don't work for all people. There seems to be a non-trivial subset of people who can't do this sort of thing.
If you have them in a tripod and have a digital camera, zoom it and take photos of image through both barrels. Using the field stop (the black edge) as a reference you can measure how far distant features are offset from each other in each barrel giving you the convergence and dipvergence for the bin.